Our report
This itinerary grew in a very strange way.
Being a thirteen year old boy I watched a documentary on French Television about an archipel. A famous sailor navigated through these bounty islands and it looked like heaven on earth…
All at once I found them ! Not at all in Micronesia, but right around the corner between Panama and Colombia.
Of course we like to visit some cloud forest and the famous Panama Canal, but the emphasis is on San Blas. We’re looking for the perfect captain to get us through the narrow canals between some of the most thrilling reefs in the Caribbean.
Meet JC. A former it-man who got bored of his job and left Marseille with his buddy on two boats: a catamaran and a mono-hull. Unfortunately the partner past away and JC started SanBlasSailing, a fantastic yacht charter company to get you in touch with the archipelago.
Smell the sea.Feel the breeze.Hear the ocean.Be at ease;
We spend the first two days in the City with visits to the Miraflores Locks and the Metropolitan NP with vistas on the ( empty) skyscrapers. The Canal is tremendous !
It’s perfect to visit the Casco Viejo by bike, ending the trip at the yacht harbor.
Finally our flight to Corazon de Jésus, San Blas… The small cabine door opens after a beautiful flight and we are practically standing in the water.. There are a few small boats at the jetty to pick-up supplies. Only two of them are here to welcome visitors.
JC, the captain, immediately spotted the 3 of us and was not amused. This bachelor and tough sailor had to accept some heavy bags and a nine-year old kid on board of his ship. Looking back at that moment after a few days, the four of us can only laugh about it. He seems somewhat more scared of the other couple: New Yorkers on honeymoon. The bride is in distress over the fact that there will be enough bottled water to cover the trip. So we get JC on the Jivago and the yanks get a Kuna captain on the catamaran ( a very nice guy btw ).
We take off as soon as possible, to avoid the chitra’s. These are little motherfucker mosquitos who give an instant ichy discomfort. Everyone who leaves the plane will be instantly obliged to learn the chitra dance in order to avoid the stings.
As from now, we are caught in an emotional rollercoaster : a very nice date with Jivago ( the yacht ), immediately catching bonito’s from the rear deck, a super encounter with the Kuna ( we buy all their shellfish for 10 $ ), JC is melting down and becomes the perfect host. He’s in love with our daughter and considers her his would-be son. He makes her participate in all kinds of tasks. This little sailor stays on the side of the big French captain and together they catch a 150 kg grouper ! On top of that she helps him prepare the giant fish for sashimi, soup and filets ! We swim through coral gardens , cook rice and cocos with the very kind Kuna and last but not least Laura learns how to make a bowline blindfolded . This archipel is so beautiful ! The day starts at six a.m. when the sun rises out of the cristal clear ocean. We’re all alone, indulged in nature ( except for the New Yorkers further on ). The groom gets stuck with the zodiak on top of a reef. The captain is not amused .
Having to leave the ship and the surroundings is very hard. We are seasoned with salt, totally zen and sailormen. JC became a friend, a very charming and after all sensitive guy who loves this country and its inhabitants. Laura is in tears when we are bound to leave. After landing in David, on our way to Boquete, we realize how fortunate we were to be a witness of this tropical beauty. The Kuna are such nice people with a great sense of humor, even though we didn’t quite understand it.
The first night in the Panamonte Hotel, we take a shower, have diner and go to bed. Our room is very cozy, but we were still rocking back and forth. A small reminder of the Jivago.
This area around Boquete is well known for rafting, kayak and jungle trails. Big fun.
After two days we went off to El Valle. via Las Lajas to continue along the beautiful and rough Pacific Coast. Hotel Bristol in Buenaventura is our final stop before returning to the capital.
Everyone along the road is very friendly, warm and interested in our journey.
Due to a lack of time we’re not able to visit Bocas del Toro and the Islas de las Perlas, but we’ll make that up later on !
